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Branco de Santa Cruz
2016
In 1994, Pablo Eguzkiza and Telmo Rodríguez, along with a third oenologist, created a Garnacha from old bush vineyards in Navarra. The wine was called Alma (soul). This is how the business started, originally under the name of Compañía de Vinos de La Granja. The name was a declaration of intent: it made it clear that the company would be producing more wines in the future and contained a homage to La Granja, the famous glassworks, a centre of outstanding Spanish craftwork that has all but...
See the COMPAÑIA DE VINOS TELMO RODRIGUEZ detail page for more information on this brand
Terrassed vineyards located at 400 to 600 meters asl above the Bibei river, on steep slopes facing south, west and northwest. Shallow, acidic and coarse textured soils developed from granites (granodiorites, magmatic rock). Low fertility. Different plots of the village of Santa Cruz.
Organically farmed vineyards. Bushvines. Manual harvest in boxes. Native yeasts. Vinification and aging for 10 months in barrels and foudres of different capacities.
A superbly textural wine with lovely clarity, minerality and line. There's honey, wattle and crunchy gravel soil twitched up with a bunch of wild herbs. The palate has good body but lengthens beautifully, phenolics are both constructive and controlled and the whole thing is beguiling and gently expansive (but not insistent).
Fresh and focused nose, showing purity and precision with lemon zest, oyster-shell minerality and green apples. Similar echoing of flavors on the textured, almost full-bodied palate. Tangy and zippy, though. Another gastronomic Galician white. Drinkable now, but will hold, too.
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The 2017 Branco de Santa Cruz was cropped from a warm and dry vintage marked by a spring that resulted in an early harvest of a shorter crop. It's a field blend of Godello, Treixadura, Doña Blanca, Palomino and other varieties from the village of Santa Cruz at 600 meters in altitude on granite soils. It fermented with indigenous yeasts and matured in oak barriques and foudres of different sizes for 10 months. Despite the difficulties of the vintage, and with the advantage of some time in bottle, the wine is showing very well. They might not like my saying so, but the wine has a somewhat Burgundian profile with the Godello character. It's a little more Mediterranean, with aromatic herbs, hay, straw and pollen, good volume and a bitter twist in the finish.
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