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Chambolle-Musigny La Combe d'Orveau
2014
Domaine Jean Grivot is one of Burgundy's greatest small family estates, and their story is a classic Burgundy family story. They were one of the first families in Vosne Romanee to bottle and sell their own wine, beginning in the 1930's. The estate has been run by fifth-generation vigneron Etienne Grivot since 1987 with his wife Marielle. The domaine is an impressive 15ha in total, but in classic 'small is beautiful' Burgundian fashion it takes little bits of 22 different appellations to cobble...
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La Combe d'Orveau is one of the few lieux-dits in Burgundy that can be a village wine, a Premier Cru or a Grand Cru. This is the first of the three, picked very late on September 19th because of the coolness of the site. Despite what you might expect, it's not jammy in the slightest, showing hedonistic red fruit sweetness, sappy minerality and finely integrated 20% new wood.
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Produced with grapes from a 0.62ha holding at the bottom of the combe in the village. The destemmed fruit is fermented slowly and gently punched down, producing a wine with a very fine perfume of violet-scented cherry fruit that is not lacking structure or length on the palate, yet still impresses with its elegance.
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The 2018 Chambolle-Musigny La Combe d’Orveau has a tightly wound bouquet of blackberry and raspberry fruit. It seems a little closed at the moment, perhaps due to the cold and overcast conditions when I visited the domaine. The palate is medium-bodied with chalky tannins that frame the vibrant red berry fruit, mixed with brown spices, white pepper, bay leaf and clove. This is quite complex toward the finish and should age with style and grace. I agreed with Mathilde Grivot when she commented that this is close to Premier Cru level.
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The 2017 Chambolle-Musigny La Combe d'Orveau is showing well, bursting with aromas of raspberries, rose petals, cherries, candied peel and grilled squab. On the palate, the wine is medium to full-bodied, ample and layered, with a sappy core of fruit and melting tannins, concluding with a delicately chalky finish.
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