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Le Cigare Volant
2019
Founded in 1983 by Randall Grahm, Bonny Doon Vineyard is located in Santa Cruz, California. Randall is one of the first California winemakers have adopted the Rhone varietals, which earned him the nickname "The Rhone Ranger." Grahm is a leader in biodynamic agriculture. In addressing the issue of abandonment of brands and model of production based traders cellars, he told the New York Times, "We must act in accordance with his own words. Produce wine from purchased grapes is less risky, but you...
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As the story unfolds, we learn that with the 2018 vintage there has been a fundamental change in the style of Le Cigare Volant. Not that there is anything at all ‘wrong’ with the first thirty-four vintages that preceded the current one, mind you, but for a number of reasons, it is time to shake things up a bit. With this ‘New Cigare’ there's beeen a seminal adjustment of the encépagement, by which the Mourvèdre has been dropped from the mix and the percentage has been elevated of the (greatly underappreciated and quite brilliant variety) Cinsault, creating a style of wine far more approachable and seductive in its youth.
2018 was a wonderful vintage, providing us grapes with great natural acidity and real vibrancy of flavor. The color is a deep, vivid violet-red, owing in part to the lower pH of the wine. On the nose, the wine has a haunting kirsch nose, along with associated small red fruit (red and black currant) and perhaps a suggestion of blackberry. My colleague, Nicole Walsh and I toil away at the Cigare blend every year, and while the blend will change, we share an idea of the Platonic form of Cigare, and the ‘17 certainly embodies that form. It goes something like this: Juiciness, fruit, brightness, exuberance, joy, and not least, a sense of savoriness.
Randall Grahm's ever-evolving ideology shifted again for the new label and blend of this bottling, which includes 52% Grenache, 35% Cinsault and 13% Syrah. Aromas of plum, cracked pepper, crumpled carnations and dried mint lead into a bright, refreshing palate of hibiscus, anise and a curry-like spice. Best Buy. —Matt Kettmann
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A delicate color in the glass, this blend of 56% Grenache, 30% Cinsault, 13% Syrah and 1% Petite Sirah pops with bright raspberry, crushed rock, turned earth and lilac aromas on the nose. The palate is tense with rocky edges and yet zesty with pomegranate and strawberry flavors.
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Deep, shimmering red. Displays lively red berry, cherry and floral qualities on the nose, along with building suggestions of exotic spices and succulent herbs. Juicy and precise on the palate, offering fresh raspberry, bitter cherry and spicecake flavors that slowly turn sweeter with air. Shows sharp delineation and spicy cut on the impressively long, silky finish, which emphatically repeats the red fruit and floral notes. This vintage marks a sharp and intentional change of direction and style for this iconic wine as winemaker/owner Randall Grahm wants it to exhibit more finesse than it has in the past.
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